After enduring ten cold, dark, and gloomy winters in Germany, I decided finally to escape the harsh German winter this year. It wasn't just about taking a break from winter; I wanted a retreat that could offer comfort and peace, along with a place to work to make my stay longer. This wasn't just a vacation; it was a search for a peaceful place where I could find mental calm and a suitable environment to continue my work. So the big question was then "Where to go?" Phuket? No way! I have never enjoyed overly crowded touristy places (except Rome). The place I was looking for should have been calming, relaxing, authentic and able to offer sufficient level of comfort with a good internet connection. Are those too much to ask? :) Well, I don't remember how I ended up landing onto a website of a very special community that shaped my experience of this winter. I had found my dream place! Koh Mak it was! The Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand! Let me take you to a journey from wherever you are. Hold my hand tight. Let's go!
In the east of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Mak is a small island of Trat Province. The Island is about 40 km from the mainland and 12.4 km². Privately owned by five families, the island's landlords implemented smart regulations when it entered the tourism market in 1974. These regulations include a prohibition on any form of prostitution, a ban on jet-skis and similar water activities to prevent noise pollution, the absence of 7/11 supermarkets with only local shops available, and the exclusive transportation of pedestrian passengers by boats, with no ferry access to the island.
Keep holding my hand tight, and I'll explain why those golden rules are a blessing for mental rest. First things first. Let me start with how I managed to reach to this tiny, remote, primitive island.
How to reach Koh Mak Island from Bangkok - Koh Mak Island - Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand
I flew with a direct flight from Istanbul to Bangkok that took about 8 hours. From Bangkok to the island, there are a few transportation options, depending on your budget, arrival time, and whether you plan to stay overnight in Bangkok or not. Since I live in a bustling metropolis and had spent the month before arriving in Thailand in one of Türkiye's most crowded cities, I was eager for peace of mind asap. Therefore, I decided to reach my final destination without a stopover. Peace was calling!
1. First things: Visa in Thailand - Koh Mak Island - Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand
Obtaining a visa for your adventure in Thailand is a breeze at passport control. However, keep in mind that the initial visa grants you only a month, and if your stay extends beyond that, you'll need to handle an extension. The extension process takes place at the foreigner offices, so it's wise to locate the nearest office to your accommodation. Plan for a cost of 2000 THB for the visa extension.
When it comes to reaching the island from the mainland, Trat Province serves as the gateway by having the closest mainland Pier to the island. The last boat departs at 2 pm. Covering the distance from Bangkok to Trat, approximately 350 km, offers various options: an intercity bus, a flight, or hiring a taxi. Opting for a budget-friendly approach, I chose the bus, considering my 5 am arrival.
Contrary to my usual pre-arrival preparations, I relied on my ability to figure things out on the spot. Trusting the adventure is part of the journey! :)
With an internet connection at my disposal, I can conquer the world! As soon as I secured my visa and breezed through police control, my army awaited me – the stands of GSM operators.
Being armed with a reliable network does only come with being armed with Thai Baht as cash. You can either use one of the ATMs to withdrawal cash or use the exchange services. Both right in front of the baggage claim where GSM operators stands are. Ready for the adventure, I took my first steps onto this tropical haven!
2. How to reach Ekkamai Bus Station from Bangkok Airport by Metro - Koh Mak Island - Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand
Later I got to know that I might have taken the public bus from the Bangkok Airport to Trat, but I'd not be able to get to know Bangkok Metro and write those sentences. It is fine, let's continue the adventure :)
I grabbed a Mass Transit System Map from the Tourism Authority of Thailand's stand right accros the exit doors and was advised by a very nice lady on how to reach Ekkamai Bus Station. So far so good! Ready for hitting the road!
Following a freezing metro journey in Bangkok's icy trains (remember to bring your hoodie to avoid falling ill), I found myself greeted by the ancient facade of Ekkamai Bus Station. Due to a miscalculation of my arrival time in Trat, I had already booked a bus ticket over the counter. However, my fatigued mind was interrupted by a taxi driver who informed me that if I intended to catch the last boat to the island, taking the bus wouldn't suffice, offering me a ride instead.
Upon returning my freshly acquired ticket after just 3 minutes, the woman at the counter remained very strict and unwilling to take my ticket back. Despite my efforts to explain the situation, she remained unresponsive. It represented my initial attempt, marked by inexperience, to establish effective communication with an average Thai individual.
In my experience, negotiating with an average Thai person as a foreigner is almost impossible. During my one-month residency and observation of numerous Thai individuals, it felt as if we inhabited parallel universes. Despite Bangkok being the world's most visited city, breaking into the authentic Thai "land" right in front of you proves exceptionally challenging. The smiles on their faces conceal a mysterious world behind their eyes that I long to comprehend. While they provide what you request straightforwardly, attempting to go one step further is often met with resistance – they block you.
This challenge reminds me of their street food courts, where I was fascinated by their efficient and optimized processes in those tiny surfaces. It was like a five-minute Six Sigma Bootcamp, witnessing their remarkable efficiency, determination and intense focus. The seamlessly executed process appeared nearly impossible to disrupt or intervene in.
Until I can fully empathize with Thai culture, the question of why they appear friendly yet remain distinct lingers in my universe. Why are they only service providers and not friends? Some might attribute this to language barriers, but it transcends that; I've witnessed genuine connections formed despite language barriers throughout my life.
Well, I hope your hand is still holding mine, as we are not quite there yet! I was extremely tired in the back seat of the taxi, also having safety concerns that I later realized were unnecessary. Thailand is the country where I have felt the safest so far.
3. How to reach Koh Mak Island from Trat Laom Ngop by Boat - Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand
We finally arrived at Laem Sok Pier, where I would board my next mode of transportation – a speed boat that takes an hour. Despite it being my first time on Thai waters, and having been awake for nearly 24 hours, I wasn't enthusiastic about the experience. I just recall stepping onto the boat and finding my seat.
Continue Journey: Koh Mak Island Guide - Paradise for Digital Nomad in Thailand